Jazz Fest 2009- Part 2

Day 1 of the Fest is now history and there's so much to tell you about! So where did we leave off??

The remainder of our Wednesday was fairly sedate. After Bob and I met for a traditional first drink at the Carousel Bar (David had a business conference call so we gave him a pass), we headed back to the hotel for a quick power nap since we'd gotten up to go the airport at 4 in the morning!
From there, we headed to Lafayette Square (after a free Abita Amber in the hotel lobby!) to hear Marcia Ball. They hold a free Wednesday afternoon concert in the square during the summer months (don't you love this town) and it seems that Marcia is always playing our Wednesday---and good for us, cause you won't find a better example of New Orleans musicianship than Marcia and her crack band!
Must admit I didn't really see much of it, as I ran into my old Med School classmate Gene Arrington and his wife Nan and spent most of my time there reminiscing with them.
After Marcia we walked a block down to Herbsaint for our first evening meal. I have no idea how we managed to eat anything after all the food wi'd stuufed down our necks earlier in the day at Dooky's...... but we somehow managed!
I'm not usually much for ordering chicken out, but I couldn't resist the broiled chicken with chicken sage sausage over polenta and grilled brussel sprouts. David had two small ( a relative term down here) plates of shrimp and grits and crawfish spoonbread, while Bob had the special of speckled trout over the butteriest (if that's not a word, it should be) mashed potatoes I've ever seen.
After dinner we walked back into the quarter to pick up prizes Bob and I'd won at the Threadhead raffle. The Threadheads are participants in the official Jazzfest online forum who each year hold a charity raffle for the New Orleans Musician's Free Clinic and raise thousands of dollars!! Who says the internet isn't good for anything!!! Jeff and Amy Potter do a marvelous job each year of gathering donations, holding the online raffle and then managing to distribute the booty at the Fest. God Bless them and all of you reading this need to check it out next year and purchase some tickets!!!
On the way back to the hotel we stumbled on a brass band of what looked like young high school kids playing in the street for money. They were just terrific! Reminded me of Will Rawlins kids from the book "Nine Lives", one of the better books about New Orleans I've ever read. I strongly encourage reading it.
And that was about it for day one. We were all bushed and had full stomachs, making for a quick trip to dream time in anticipation of the first day at the fest!

Day 1:

What a great first day. Despite the overcast skies and the few early sprinkles, it turned out to be a wonderful first day at the fest. The crowds were light and mellow which made it a perfect day for wandering around and getting our bearings.
But of course, first things first, and that means getting off the bus and making a beeline to the Prejean's food booth for the best tasting food that has ever passed my lips---the legendary Pheasant, Quail, and Andouille Sausage Gumbo!!


First gumbo!!!

After chasing the first gumbo with a bowl of Cajun Jambalaya (I prefer the slightly drier, brown jambalaya over the sweeter red jambalaya, but they have both at the fest!) we each went our separate ways and the music began!

My first stop was at the Heritage stage, which always kicks off with the traditional Mardis Gras Indians. Now this is a tradition that, despite coming down here for nearly two decades, I am just beginning to understand!

Mardi Gras Indians have been parading in New Orleans at least since the mid-19th century, possibly before.

When Carribean communities started to spring up in New Orleans, their culture was incorporated into the suits, dances and music made by the "Indians".

In the late 19th century and early years of the 20th century, the tribes had a reputation for violent fights with each other. This part of Mardi Gras Indian history is immortalized in Sugar Boy Crawford's "Jock O Mo" (better known as "Iko Iko"), based on their taunting chants.

As the 20th century progressed, physical confrontation gave way to assertions of status by having better suits, songs, and dances. Generations ago when Mardi Gras Indians came through neighborhoods, people used to run away; now people run toward them for the colorful spectacle.

There is a lot of good reading about this in Dan Baum's book "Nine Lives" that I referred to before.

The Big Chief!!

From there I spent the better part of the morning simply wandering around and listening to one or two songs at each stage, including The Inspirational Gospel Singers, Bamboula 2000 ( a latin flavored group), and Sonny Bourg's Bayou Blues Band who I watched from the book tent!

I then headed over to the Acura Stage (one of three large stages, including the Getilly and Congo Suare stages) to see local favorites Johnny Sketch and the Dirty Notes, a group of young locals who defy any musical catagory. They combine rock and roll, blues, hip hop and even swing music into a style all their own. It's a little tough to translate it to CD, but they are a terrific band to see live!!
The Dirty Notes!


A Happy Fester Grooving To Johnny Sketch

From there I made my way to the interview stage which this year is really loaded with sessions with incredibly interesting people and musicians. My first trip there was to see a tribute to Snooks Eaglin.
Snooks was a blind singer/guitarist here in New Orleans with a reputation for being a human jukebox, a reputation confirmed by George Porter Jr., who played bass with Snooks the last few years and was one of the panelists at the tribute. Also onstage was Snooks childhood friend and legendary songwriter and producer, Mr. Allen Toussaint. Their love for Snooks and his music was abundant in their words and the songs they played for the grateful crowd that had gathered to honor the man!
Snooks Tribute with George Porter Jr on bass and Allen Toussaint on keys.


I was truly honored to have the opportunity to meet and have my picture taken with Mr. Toussaint!


Despite the fact that Emmylou Harris was next up on the interview stage, I really had my heart set on getting a seat in the Jazz tent for the George Wein All Stars.

For those who don't know, Mr Wein (now 84 years old) is the founder of the Newport Jazz Festival, which really was the first of it's kind. He was also instrumental in the birth of the New Orleans Jazz Festival 40 years ago. As evidenced by my own experiences today, his idea of having multiple acts playing that would draw you in while you wandered around the grounds has truly come to fruition! To honor his contributions, he was asked to put together an all star group to perform (he himself is quite a good piano player). The group included Howard Alden on guitar, 25 year old bass phenom Esperanza Spalding, Israeli clarinetest/saxaphonist Anat Cohen, Randy Brecker on trumpet, and the legendary drummer and sole surviving member of the Miles Davis band that made the "Kind Of Blue" album Jimmy Cobb.

I can't begin to say what a great show they put on. Each member was featured repeatedly and there was no doubt why Wein chose these players. They were all truly masters!!!

Randy Brecker


Esperanza Spalding


Anat Cohen


Howard Alden

Jimmy Cobb



George Wein

I'd be remiss if I didn't also mention that just before the All Stars set I had the pleasure of catching the last couple of songs by Wynton and Branford Marsalis' younger brother Delfeayo's band, which also included the youngest musical Marsalis, Jason, on drums. Delfeayo closed with a beautiful version of "Louis Armstrong's "Wonderful World" with him on trombone accompanied by piano.



Delfeayo and Jason Marsalis

From the jazz tent, I took the advice of George Wein when he helped create this fest and went from stage to stage watching 2 or 3 numbers by each of the bands closing out day 1 of the fest.

I started with Ben Harper whose new band, The Relentless 7, is much grungier and heavier than the Innocent Criminals.

From there I made my way to the Congo Square stage to see soul legend Solomon Burke. Despite being confined to a wheelchair, he still belted out his own unique Memphis soul as though he were 50 years younger!
The Solomon Burke Band

From Solomon I decided to end the day with Emmylou Harris, so I began making my way over to the Gentilly Stage.

Forgive me Kevin Rock, but I'd somehow managed to forget that Rosie Ledet was also closing out day 1. But the music Gods smiled on me and took me right by the Fais Do-Do stage on my way to Gentilly and so I didn't miss the chance to catch the The Zydeco Sweetheart in all her glory!!

Rosie Rocks!!!


Two young fans dancing to Rosie at the Fais Do-Do.

I truly had to tear myself away from Rosie's set but I finally ended the day with Emmylou Harris who closed out day one for me with her gorgeous song "Orphan Girl" as I made my way back to the buses for the trip back to the Quarter.

Emmylou Harris ends Day 1 on the Gentilly Stage.

It was a truly wonderful first day and it was nice to have a seat on the bus and relax and reflect on all the good food and music as I headed back towards the hotel to rendezvous with Bob and Dave for dinner.
We started with a couple of tall Wild Turkeys and diet coke to get the night off to a mellow start and then caught our cab out past Carrollton to try a new restaurant, Dante's Kitchen. Turns out it's right across the street from another long time favorite, Brigtsen's. And it turns out to be every bit as good. After a couple more drinks (as if we hadn't had enough) we started our meals with appetizers of shrimp and grits and barbequed shrimp. I had the Redfish entree topped with minty greens and crab meat while David feated on a trio of filets including one topped with Stilton Blue Cheese and another with BarBQ pork and Bob downed the Maple glazed chicken with a side of potatoe hash topped with a fried egg! We finished off the meal with warm spice cake topped with chocolate sauce and one of my personal faves, Key Lime Pie. Between the full bellies and the significant whiskey buzz, we all felt fine as we headed off to get some rest before day 2 begins........a day that won't end until about 4 am tomorrow!!

Stay tuned!!!!